22nd September 2018 6pm
Sonder n. – The realisation that each passer-by is living a life as vivid and as complex as your own.
An early dinner before seeing a show at the Festival Theatre, Sonder has caught my eye a few weeks earlier, so we thought we’d give it a go. With a mixture of tables and booths, Sonder had quite a sumptuous feel. We were greeted and seated and had the menu explained to us. They usually recommend a few snacks and then a couple of the main plates per person. The main plates were split into garden, sea and land. In the end, after a little wait to place our order, we chose the chicken wings and scallop ceviche for our snacks, followed by ricotta agnolotti, mushroom with confit yolk, crab, and beef short rib.
The snacks came out and we were immediately excited by them. The chicken wing was in small pieces on skewers, with maple and corn. The sweetness that they gave was a delightful match for the chicken. The scallop ceviche was sublime. The ceviche sat on top of squid in crackers in scallop shells. The lightness of the scallop was beautiful and danced on the palate. I ate it way too quickly though. I just couldn’t help myself.
The crab and mushroom dishes arrived next. The crab was plated up so delicately, placed on daikon and floating in a poaching liquor (nage). The nage brought so much flavour to enhance the crab without drowning it. The mushroom plate also looked very simple. But appearances can be deceiving, as was the case here. The mushrooms we could see at the top of the dish looked quite plain, but concealed a whole host of other flavoursome mushrooms underneath, along with prunes (sounds odd but totally works), confit egg yolk and ‘yesterday’s bread’. This was a corker of a dish. The balance of flavours was incredibly clever.
Then we had the agnolotti and the short beef rib. The agnolotti was a wonderful green colour and had strips of leeks balanced across them. The hazelnuts scattered amongst the pasta added some good texture and the ricotta in the agnolotti was delicious. The pasta itself might have been a shade too al dente for my liking but I’d prefer it that way rather than rubbery or mush. However, the star of the show was still to come. The beef short rib was exceptional. Served with a oozy, sticky sauce which glistened over walnuts and burnt onions. Small bits of bacon peeked out, with mustard seeds adding a little bite. The beef melted in the mouth. I never wanted this dish to end and was a little miffed that I had to share it with my friend. Next time we would definitely order one of these each.
After all that, we surprisingly felt we could fit in dessert, so ordered the chocolate and strawberry desserts. The chocolate dessert was really rich but utterly amazing. With praline and a caramel spin, this is heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. The strawberry dessert came with sable and caramelised which chocolate. Across the top were meringue sticks which almost looked like those candy sticks I had as a child. The fruit balanced out the richness of the chocolate. This was a well put together dish.
Let’s be honest, Sonder is an amazing restaurant which once established, will no doubt go from strength to strength. The staff were lovely and the atmosphere wasn’t stuffy. Go visit and do it soon.
Food – 9.5/10
Service – 9/10
Value – 9.5/10
Overall – 37/40
Would I eat here again? As many times as is socially acceptable without being given a restraining order (I really loved this place).
Cost £70 for two snacks, four plates, two desserts and a glass of wine