1st June 2018 7.15pm
Chef Scott Smith announced in April that he was leaving Norn to set up a new place. Around a month later, Fhior opened up on Broughton Street and we nipped in on a Friday night on the off chance there was a table, which there was (I doubt that will last for long). We were seated by a window looking out into a little back garden. It was nice to get some natural light on the table in these light evenings.
There was a choice of a four or seven course tasting menu. We decided to throw caution to the wind and plump for the seven course option. We were brought out some bread and some coppa to start off. Those delicious slice of pork was great to stave off the stomach rumbles until our first course arrived.
The first course was a little bowl with some small mackerel pieces in it sitting in some liquor. This was a refreshing taste and a really pleasant start to the meal.
We then received a beautiful halibut dish. This came with Swiss chard and salt marsh herbs. The fish was cooked perfectly and flaked delicately. The light sauce pulled the whole thing together well.
The next course was slightly unusual with the pairing of prawn with rhubarb but weirdly it worked. Again, the exquisitely designed plate of food was delicious. The prawn was particularly plump and juicy.
I love a bit of asparagus as well as garlic, so the next course was right up my street. Asparagus was matched with spruce, wild garlic and wood sorrel. The delicacy of the flavours worked in harmony and created a lovely summery flavour.
Next up was baby gem lettuce, hogget, peas and goats curd. This was a whole piece of charred baby gem lettuce with hogget scattered through it. Again another really great dish, although I found the end of my lettuce a little unappetising so left it.
The last of the savoury courses was chicken with mushroom, barley and lovage. The chicken had been cooked sous vide and was wonderfully moist as a result. The mushrooms complemented the barley and the lovage purée drew the elements together. The whole thing was satisfying.
The first of our two desserts arrived in the form of strawberries, with a woodruff ice cream and rapeseeds. Neither of us had tried woodruff ice cream before and were pleasantly surprised. This served as a more substantial palate cleanser.
The last course of the evening was a chocolate one. It came as white chocolate, beremeal and seaweed. Whilst reading the list, you might not be attracted to this dessert but it was an absolute corker. The flavours and textures felt like they were made for each other.
As we wrapped up our meal, we were given a raspberry each on a spoon. I thought this was a much nicer way to end the meal than a mint but was even more surprised as I popped it in my mouth as it was warm and almost liquid. It was the perfect end to what was a delightful meal.
The staff at Fhior were knowledgeable and friendly and the whole place had a more relaxed atmosphere than Norn. Fhior is a place to enjoy and savour. Check it out.
Food – 9/10
Service – 9/10
Atmosphere – 9/10
Value – 9/10
Overall – 36/40
Would I eat here again? Most definitely
£145 for two 7 course tasting menus and two glasses of wine